* attach: attach a hem or a facing using a slip stitch, meaning a hand-sewn stitch that is invisible on the right side of the fabric.
* awl: a fine, pointed metal tool that is very useful for distributing gathers and pushing out corners.
* bagging: sewing technique used when assembling two same shaped pieces (reversible or lined) with s. allowances inside without topstitching.
* baste: long running stitches to temporarily hold garment pieces together
* bias: an orientation at a 45° angle to both the lengthwise grain and the crosswise grain. Fabric cut on the true bias is more flexible, has greater stretch, and drapes more fluidly.
* binding = cover with bias tape: applying a bias on both sides of a fabric edge for a clean finish.
* clip corners = snip...off: after assembling two pieces, remove extra fabric either by reducing the seam allowance by half for a curve or cutting the seam allowance diagonally for a corner.
* create notches: after stitching two pieces together, small V-shaped slots are cut at regular intervals in the seam allowance, for greater flexibility in a curve, such as a neckline, collar, armhole, etc.
* cut size: size of the piece including s.allowance.
* cutting layout: a miniature drawing showing the layout of all pieces to be cut from the same piece of cloth, for optimal use of fabric without waste.
* decate: steam the fabric to pre-shrink and stabilize it before cutting and sewing.
* double-fold hem: a hem made by folding the fabric edge twice to the wrong side, enclosing the raw edge before topstitching.
* double notch: two notches spaced 1 cm apart, usually found on front pattern pieces, used to distinguish the front from the back.
* ease = fullness: difference in length between two lines that will be assembled. The extra fabric adds a lovely curve to the longer line, particularly to a sleeve cap. When assembling, use a gathering thread and meticulous pinning to absorb extra fabric from the longer line without making folds or gathers.
* finish a seam with a bias tape = binding: to enclose a seam allowance with a strip of fabric. Allows a clean finish.
* finished size: Finished size of the piece without s.allowance corresponding to the seam lines. Finished seam= seam line
* fullness = ease: the extra length of one piece of fabric which is gathered to match the length of a shorter piece, providing a better fit in curved areas.
* gap method: in pattern making, technique consisting of tracing a new line through the middle of the gap induced by a pattern modification.
* gathering (or gathers): a technique for bunching the fabric or creating ruffles. Method: loosen the thread tension, select a very long straight stitch setting, and leave long threads at the begining and at the end (wihout any backstitch). On the edge to be gathered, stitch 2 parallel gathering threads 5 mm apart: one on the seamline and the other 5 mm away in the seam allowance. Pull simultaneously on both bobbin threads to gather the fabric. During stitching, use an awl* to help distribute the gathers.
* interface: reinforce a piece of fabric by fusing a separate fabric to the wrong side.
* knit: knitted cloth, which gives it stretch in both directions.
* leftover bulk: the excess fabric arising from creating a dart or a fold.
* lengthwise grain: are the threads going parallel to the selvedge* of the fabric.
* notch: a small cut slot indicating how to position two garment pieces before they are stitched together. A notch matches either another notch or a seam. Shown on the pattern, it should be transferred to the fabric by cutting a slot several millimeters long. Usually, a double notch* indicates the front, while a single notch indicates the back.
* off-grain: an orientation that lies between the straight grain and the true bias. Fabric cut off-grain has more flexibility and a softer drape than fabric cut on the straight grain, but less so than fabric cut on the true bias.
* on fold: means the fabric must be folded in half, right sides together, with each piece to be cut “on fold” positioned along this centre fold.
* overcast: a row of continuous stitching close to a fabric seam to prevent fraying using a zigzag or 3-thread serger stitch.
* oversew = overcast
* pintuck seam: seam created 2mm from the edge.
* press a fold: press a fold onto the reverse side of the fabric.
* raglan sleeve: added sleeve without fullness*, with sleeve cap extending from under the arm to the neckline.
* secure: fuse a form tape interfacing on a line to avoid deforming fabric either during sewing or after several washes. Watch video tutorial here.
* selvedge: the finished edge of fabric on either side of its width.
* serge: stitch the edges of 2 layers of fabric to assemble them with a clean finish (usually using a 4 thread serger).
* set-in sleeve: added sleeve with sleeve cap extending from under the arm to the shoulder. It has fullness* or gathers distributed over both sides of the shoulder.
* sewing gauge: a small piece of graded cardboard.
* snip...off = clip corners: after assembling two pieces, remove extra fabric either by reducing the seam allowance by half for a curve or cutting the seam allowance diagonally for a corner.
* staystitch: a line of stitching, often sewn with reduced thread tension, used either to prevent the fabric from stretching out of shape, to hold two pieces edge to edge, or to mark the position of a future fold.
* stitch down: sew a few stitches in the s.allowance in order to keep a layer of fabric in place and stop it from moving.
* stitch in the ditch: stitching made directly over an existing seam, where the fabric pieces meet.
* stretch factor: percentage of enlargement of a fabric once stretched to the maximum (a fabric may have a stretch factor even if it does not contain any stretchy material) = 10 x (test square of 10 x 10 cm stretched to the maximum perpendicular to the straight grain – 10)
* topstitch: make a row of continuous stitches designed to be seen from the outside of the garment, as a decorative feature and/or to hold a layer of fabric in place.
* understitch: press the seam allowance towards the inside of the garment (facing or lining) and stitch at 2 mm from the edge on the facing/lining side. This seam will keep the facing/lining securely on the inside of the garment.
* use bias tape: placing bias binding on the edge of a fabric, to create a neat finish.
* warp and weft: cloth formed of two interwoven sets of threads, the warp (vertical) and the weft (horizontal), which gives it a certain stiffness, i.e., no stretch, unless a small percentage of elastic fibres are used.
* width: the breadth of the fabric between opposite selvedges.