For 1,5 cm seam allowances:
1/ Lay pieces to be assembled wrong sides together.
2/ With a serger: overcast at 8 mm, then press seam flat.
Without serger: stitch at 8 mm, reduce seam allowance by half, press seam open then flat.
3/ Turn the fabric right sides together, folding along the seam. Stitch at 6 mm, enclosing previous seam allowance.
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OPEN SEAM WITH FOLDED OVERCAST
For 1,5 cm seam allowances:
1/ Overcast or serge 5mm of the edge of the fabric.
2/ Press a fold the width of the overcasting and stitch down*.
3/ Pin pieces to assemble right sides together and edge to edge. Stitch at 1 cm, then press open seam.Â
*
Prepare or buy a form-tape interfacing 1 cm wide (rather cut in the bias), then iron it on the wrong side of the fabric as close as possible to the finished seam.
Refer to the assembly instructions to find out which lines to secure.
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SHORTEN OR LENGTHEN
To shorten (or lengthen) a blouse or a dress including a basque, here are several solutions to be combined or not:
1/Shorten (or lenghten) the bodice: reduce (or extend) side lines as well as the darts then draw a parallel line to the bottom line.
2/ Shorten (or lengthen) the basque(s): as they are rectangles, you can decide the height.
3/ Add a 2nd basque: it must be 50 % wider than the basque it will join. It is up to you to decide the height. Remember to add notches at each quarter at the level of the future seam on the 2 concerned basques.
IMPORTANT: changes to be made on the back and front !
To learn more on how to shorten or lengthen any other type of garment, click here.