FRENCH SEAM

For 1,5 cm seam allowances:

1/ Lay pieces to be assembled wrong sides together.

2/ With a serger: overcast at 8 mm, then press seam flat.

Without serger: stitch at 8 mm, reduce seam allowance by half, press seam open then flat.

3/ Turn the fabric right sides together, folding along the seam. Stitch at 6 mm, enclosing previous seam allowance.

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OPEN SEAM WITH FOLDED OVERCAST

For 1,5 cm seam allowances:

1/ Overcast or serge 5mm of the edge of the fabric.

2/ Press a fold the width of the overcasting and stitch down*.

3/ Pin pieces to assemble right sides together and edge to edge. Stitch at 1 cm, then press open seam. 

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SECURE

For an interfacing invisible on both the right and the wrong side of the garment:

1/ On shoulder line and neckline: make or purchase a 1 cm strip of form tape interfacing cut on the grain line. Fuse it edge to edge on the wrong side of the fabric in the s.allow.: it should stop before or on the finished seam.

2/ On armholes: using chalk or erasable pen, draw the seam line on the right side of the fabric. Make (or purchase and re-cut) a strip of 8 mm form tape interfacing cut on the grain line for a 1 cm s.alllow. Fuse it edge to edge on the right side of the fabric in the s.allow.: it should stop exactly 1 mm before the finished seam.

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SHORTEN OR LENGTHEN

To shorten (or lengthen) a blouse or a dress including a basque, here are several solutions to be combined or not:

1/Shorten (or lenghten) the bodice: reduce (or extend) side lines as well as the darts then draw a parallel line to the bottom line.

2/ Shorten (or lengthen) the basque(s): as they are rectangles, you can decide the height.

3/ Add a 2nd basque: it must be 50 % wider than the basque it will join. It is up to you to decide the height. Remember to add notches at each quarter at the level of the future seam on the 2 concerned basques.

IMPORTANT: changes to be made on the back and front !

To learn more on how to shorten or lengthen any other type of garment, click here.