DIAPASON
Slightly fitted blouse with a round neckline, with or without gathered flounce. Button placket and optional diagonal gathered front flounce. Three sleeve options: short or long with elasticated cuffs, or long and straight to be worn rolled up. Finished with French seams and concealed binding.
- Level: Beginner
- Pattern for sizes : 34 to 52 (European) / 4 to 22 (US) / 6 to 24 (UK)
- 9 possible variations
- Seam allowances included (see quality chart)
- Free access to full step-by-step assembly video
- Bilingual English-French pattern
- More pictures #diapasonpattern #atelierscammit
PAPER PATTERN: instruction booklet + full size pattern > A0 (no overlapping)
PDF PATTERN: instruction file + projector file + full size pattern to print and assemble (1 layer per size and 2 printing formats : A0 = 2 pages / A4 and US Letter = 23 pages).
What you will learn with this pattern (see the videos of the main techniques here) :
- Secure sewing lines before assembly
- Assembling a set-in sleeve
- Sewing a flounce into the neckline
- Making French seams
- Making gathers thanks to a flat elastic band
- Making a double hem
- Finishing a neckline with concealed binding
- Making an elasticated cuff
Recommended fabrics :
- Weight: very light to light (80 to 150 gsm or 3-5 oz.)
- Fabric: woven (batiste, poplin, serge)
- Stretch factor*: 0 to 10% (0% elastane)
All version has been made size 38 without any modification (Johanna’s measurements : 1m75 - 87/71/95):
- Nude version: worn with a California pants in a burgundy gabardine
- Blue denim version: worn with a California pants in a striped denim
- Checked fabric version: worn with a California pants in an offwhite linen
Visit the blog to learn how to adjust the pattern for height.
Measures :
| Sizes (body measures) EUR / US / UK | 34/4/6 | 36/6/8 | 38/8/10 | 40/10/12 | 42/12/14 | 44/14/16 | 46/16/18 | 48/18/20 | 50/20/22 | 52/22/24 |
| Height (inches) | 66,9 | 66,9 | 66,9 | 66,9 | 66,9 | 66,9 | 66,9 | 66,9 | 66,9 | 66,9 |
| Bust (inches) | 31,5 | 33,1 | 34,6 | 36,2 | 38,2 | 40,6 | 42,9 | 45,3 | 47,6 | 50,0 |
| Waist (inches) | 24,4 | 26,0 | 27,6 | 29,1 | 31,1 | 33,5 | 35,8 | 38,2 | 40,6 | 42,9 |
| Hip (inches) | 33,9 | 35,4 | 37,0 | 38,6 | 40,6 | 42,9 | 45,3 | 47,6 | 50,0 | 52,4 |
| Biceps (inches) | 9,7 | 10,2 | 10,6 | 11,1 | 11,7 | 12,4 | 13,1 | 13,8 | 14,5 | 15,2 |
| Finished garment EUR / US / UK | 34/4/6 | 36/6/8 | 38/8/10 | 40/10/12 | 42/12/14 | 44/14/16 | 46/16/18 | 48/18/20 | 50/20/22 | 52/22/24 |
| Bust (inches) | 36 | 37 | 39 | 40 | 42 | 45 | 47 | 49 | 52 | 54 |
| Total length (inches) | 25 | 25 | 26 | 26 | 27 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 29 | 30 |
| Arm circumference (inches) | 13,2 | 13,7 | 14,1 | 14,5 | 15,0 | 15,6 | 16,1 | 16,7 | 17,3 | 17,9 |
| Long sleeve length (inches) | 25 | 26 | 26 | 26 | 26 | 26 | 26 | 27 | 27 | 27 |
| Short sleeve length (inches) | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 11 | 11 | 12 |
| Garment bottom (inches) | 38 | 39 | 41 | 42 | 44 | 47 | 49 | 51 | 54 | 56 |
Supplies :
| For sizes EUR / US / UK | 34/4/6 | 36/6/8 | 38/8/10 | 40/10/12 | 42/12/14 | 44/14/16 | 46/16/18 | 48/18/20 | 50/20/22 | 52/22/24 |
| Fabric 55" wide (inches): long sleeves | 55 | 55 | 59 | 63 | 67 | 67 | 71 | 75 | 79 | 79 |
| Fabric 55" wide (inches): short sleeves | Subtract 8" from the yardage listed above | Subtract 15" from the yardage listed above | ||||||||
| Flat elastic band 0.2" | max 78" | |||||||||
| Bias 0.08" | max 39" | |||||||||
| Buttons | 7 x 0.04-0.05" | |||||||||
| Thin fusible interfacing | max 24" | |||||||||
| Form tape interfacing | (or a 0.4” width thin fusible interfacing band) max 78” | |||||||||
Video
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Reviews (5) - Review moderation
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Sarah
Drafting is great, instructions can be difficult to navigate
Fabulous pattern and such a pretty blouse. It is my first pattern from Atelier-Scammit and I love it. The instructions are clear and I used the auto translate and watched the video. I struggled with using elastic to do the gathers so reverted to normal gathering. I’ve just started Diapason blouse number two and the fabric for number three is already washed and waiting!
The drafting of this pattern is really well done. I normally have to make adjustments for my narrow shoulders but Atelier Scämmit top patterns fit me very well out of the box. Love all the different details. As I’m not the biggest fan of gathering I really like the idea of using elastic. I only find the 2-page instructions a little difficult to navigate on my iPad and would appreciate having the centimeters included in the English version of the pattern (now I constantly need to go back and forth between the two versions).
By Sarah N. the 04/12/2024
By Silje v. the 04/01/2024
Sarah
Fabulous pattern and such a pretty blouse. It is my first pattern from Atelier-Scammit and I love it. The instructions are clear and I used the auto translate and watched the video. I struggled with using elastic to do the gathers so reverted to normal gathering. I’ve just started Diapason blouse number two and the fabric for number three is already washed and waiting!
By Sarah N. the 04/12/2024
Drafting is great, instructions can be difficult to navigate
The drafting of this pattern is really well done. I normally have to make adjustments for my narrow shoulders but Atelier Scämmit top patterns fit me very well out of the box. Love all the different details. As I’m not the biggest fan of gathering I really like the idea of using elastic. I only find the 2-page instructions a little difficult to navigate on my iPad and would appreciate having the centimeters included in the English version of the pattern (now I constantly need to go back and forth between the two versions).
By Silje v. the 04/01/2024
The prettiest blouse!
I love this pattern. I made it in a pretty block-print voile and it is so lovely. The fit is perfect. I changed the cuff a bit, instead of the elasticized version, I made a narrow (1/4") cuff. I also didn't do the elasticized ruffle as per the instructions, but did a conventional gathering stitch. I wore the blouse just yesterday and felt great in it. I will make another one for sure!
By Mary B. the 03/16/2024
Lovely pattern
Very straightforward pattern with good instructions and helpful video guides. I love the numerous variations and made the long sleeve version with frilled cuffs and the neck frill as a gift for a friend. I am going to make the same for myself. The French seams and bias bound neck seam make for a great finish. The only change I made was to construct the neck frill with gathering rather than the elastic method which I’m not familiar with.
By Clare M. the 10/22/2023
Lesley
Great pattern. Will make it again in another fabric. Comes up very snug fit so will add a little to both the length and the back. I would say it is an intermediate skill rather than beginner level.
By lesley p. the 10/17/2023
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